Whitewashed studio with a rooftop hammock.

This one has the rooftop hammock you keep talking about — south-facing, terracotta roofs all the way to the river. Host is a former architect, replies in minutes.

A single room, a working kitchen, a stairwell up to a tiled roof terrace big enough for one person and a book. The owner's grandmother's tiles are still in the bathroom. He left a typed note about the bakery two doors down.